Steve Pardoe's uk.rec.climbing Trip Report Archive Pages

Noelle's Reports

Edition of 27/04/2004


----- Original Message -----
From: "Noelle"
Newsgroups: uk.rec.climbing
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 9:41 PM
Subject: "Two Goths went to climb...

Went to climb a craaaaaaaggg..."

Well, that was the plan, anyway.

For those not in the loop, there has been a twice-yearly Gothic Music Festival Weekend in Whitby for over ten years now. Every April and November, the sleepy Yorkshire Town is taken over by swathes of black- clad people from all corners of the UK (and other parts of the world!)

Oh, and myself and climbing partner.

Now, being utter crag addicts, after two days and nights of partying at the Spa Pavilion, we were drawn outdoors by the clement weather and went in search of some rock to clamber up.

After a quick scan of the North East guide, the best topo could be found of Camp Hill. The rock looked lovely, grades varied and it was only a few miles away on the moors.

Oh, the fun we had finding it! We took in all the minor villages surrounding the crag (Danby, Ainthorpe, Fryup) but not the thing itself.

Of three locals we asked, two thought we were insane and couldn't understand why we would drive *out* of Whitby, only to walk to the middle of nowhere and climb bits of rock. Didn't we know that the Dracula Experience was open until 6pm? Or that we would surely be better off going to Robin Hood's Bay for a cream tea?

The third was a Canadian potato farmer, who not only had an OS map, but more of an idea of what we wanted to do. So, we followed his directions and finally ended up in the right general area.

Then we found, and deviated from, the (alleged) bridleway. After 30minutes of trudging through pathless heather and bog, we found and identified the crag. Hooray! However, since the guidebook had failed to mention this "hike"-in, we had left everything behind in the car, thinking that we'd be able to find the right bit of rock within a few hundred metres, then go back and collect the tat. Not so, and now we had lost the car.

An hour later, we had crawled our way back to the car, loaded up all the gear, fallen over in the heather a lot, sunk up to our knees in boggy bits, developed a few blisters, but eventually gained the crag again and got cracking.

By this time I was absolutely shattered (still suffering from the previous nights' vodka) and didn't much fancy leading the chossy pile that stretched out above me. Strange that this particular crag appeared somewhat neglected, what with the ease of locating, etc...

The cleanest and most climbable part (main buttress) contained three HVS's and an E3. Not quite warm-up material. So, taking advantage of the in-situ lower-offs, I rigged up a top-rope.

The climbing was actually suprisingly good but hard, with excellent unpolished (!!?) grit and long reaches. The best was "Ace of Winds" HVS (IIRC) and we also swung off several variations of this, before getting halfway up the E3 6a before being spat off it and grated for our petulance.

After only an hour or so, we headed back to meet friends back in the Elsinore at Whitby. It only took 20 minutes to find the car this time.

All in all, if you are ever in Whitby and the sun is shining...

Noelle

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