Steve Pardoe's uk.rec.climbing Trip Report Archive Pages

Mike Blamires's Reports

Edition of 2/6/2005

Mike Blamires, Froggatt, May 2005

Froggatt, Mike Blamires, May 2005

From: "Mike Blamires"
Newsgroups: uk.rec.climbing
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 11:16 AM
Subject: TR: Wind, Lead, E Point & Froggatt ...

Hello all, Thought I would put up a few words about yeterdays jaunt to the peak, I am sure we did more climbs than described, still ... enjoy

Had a very pleasent trip to Froggat yesterday afternoon with regular climbing partner Neil and one of his friends Mark. For a bank holiday weekend the crag was suprisingly and thankfully underpopulated. Froggat was chosen as we hoped it would afford us some shelter in the rather windy conditions (and I think Neil had some routes to tick off!), our choice seemed to pay off but it was rather breezy at the top still.

Neil, knowing my general poor jamming and off-widthing skills choose North Climb as a warm up which on second I got myself stuck & wedged in the crack and eventually used the 'easier' method of anything I could crimp on the slab.

Next up was somthing else, damned if I can remember, it was a nice climb though :)

Having done my last trad lead two years ago and for some reason unknown to me loosing my b***ocks at some point, the idea of leading anything has been at the back of my mind in a segment marked "don't do this". But inspration struck me at the bottom of Heather Crack and it was now or never, OK it isn't hard I have done the route once before, but did the lead and realised again exactly why I climb. Once again avoiding as much use of the crack as possible sailed up placed a few peices of protection which actually would have been useful in a fall and enjoyed it more more than any climb I can remember.

Neil then showed my lead effort up with a nice clean solo of Sunset Slab getting put off only once by a nasty gust of wind.

After some VDiff pottering and a nice climb on another route led by Mark (again name forgotten!), may have been a Putrell route as it typically led me to thrashing round and getting stuck etc.

Neil had a great lead on Terrance Crack followed by Mark and then by me to retrieve the gear that Mark couldn't remove, for 'poorly placed' gear it sure was bomb proof! Getting the nut out at the top had to be done with me in a very wedged position which seemed to result in singgering from below, still what an excellent route, my kind of climbing sailed up it. Non of this off width nonsense you see!

Finally after having a good day Neil rounded it off with a lead on Three Pebble Slab, his first E grade lead ... he completed cleanly with much cheering after quite carefully negotiating the top slab. I seconded with brute force and no elegance and as Neil described it (with much cheering and amazement) dynoing out of the crux onto nothing and powering out holding seemingly nothing, it wasn't elegant but apparently it looked great! Mark followed favouring control and topped out cleanly and with a nervous look on his face, he didn't like it even on second!

All in all an excellent day, Mark has kindly put the days photos here for your visual pleasure:



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