Steve Pardoe's uk.rec.climbing Trip Report Archive Pages

Alex Herbert's Reports

Edition of 28/10/2003

Tremadog routes below HVS, Alex Herbert, October 2003

From: "Alex Herbert"
Newsgroups: uk.rec.climbing
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Tremadog routes below HVS

Thanks to everyone for the advice, it was very useful to me and the others I was climbing with. Ended up not climbing on Saturday due to poor weather (it is north wales after all!). However Sunday was as good a day as you could have asked for, clear skies, warm and no wind.

Started climbing in the general area of Meshack and Shadrack. Proved to be a popular spot as many groups were climbing there all day. Climbed Shadrack (VS) and the route just to the right, something Old boys ??? (VS) since we couldn't get on to Grim wall or Meshack.

The first pitch of Shadrack is an exiting way to start the day with a pumpy, sustained effort required to climb the outside of the chimney with barely any protection (save for some size 5 cams - which I didn't have). However the second and third pitch (you can combine the first two) are a delight with nice smears on the grippy rock, some good juggy moves and also delicate balance climbing, esp. the third pitch. I think the 2nd and 3rd pitch are easy for the grade or the first is hard, either way you get over the inital 10 meters and the rest is very enjoyable climbing.

The route on the right of Shadrack definately requires more boldness as a lead. The intial crack is protectable by a size 5 cam and then on the 2nd pitch there is a traverse diagonal right then left under an overhang which is not for the nervous due to the small hand and foot holds. There's stuff there but you think perhaps not enough. The pitch ends at the boulder to the right of Shadrach's 2nd belay and the two routes share a common 3rd unless you wish to go for the direct (E1) or varient finishes (HVS). I had a look but didn't feel bold enough for those options.

Ended up the day climbing the ever popular Christmas Curry (S/HS) since my partner wanted a look. You can easily combine the first two pitches to make good headway. Then took the Micah finish up the obvious crack on the face which finishes right up the arete, a finish shared with Plum (E1). There's less protection than the classic finish but enough holds to make it safe enough.

Already looking forward to my next trip since there's still a lot left to do.


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