Steve Pardoe's Rock Climbing Pages

30. March 2002, Burbage North

Revision of 17. April 2002 (link to Adrian's pics)

A select Youarsey* meeting with Adrian J, John H, and Sean, later joined by a clean-shaven Hairball, and Laura, on a perfect spring day at Burbage North, a friendly Gritstone outcrop in England's Peak District. There was even some of Mrs P's cake.

Adrian's pictures are here, and here's a TR from Stanage a couple of weeks later

Sean, John H and Adrian, gearing up

I arrived a little after the others, who were breezing up Ash Tree Wall, so I racked up and then led Adrian (my gallant partner all day) on Ash Tree Crack (VD). It seemed well up to the grade, perhaps just because it was my first lead for a while.

We moved along to the Sentinel area and had a stab at The Grazer (VS 4c). This finishes in quite an awkward roof crack, desperate, even! We set up a top-rope instead, and retained the set-up for the adjacent Lieback (VS 4c). Although given the same grade, this seemed a lot easier than The Grazer, and the flake exit is, well, enjoyable.

John decided to have a go at leading The Grazer, but found Hollyash Crack (VS 4b) more to his liking.

John (left) having a crack at the crux of The Grazer (VS4c)...

 

 

 

...and (right) looking rather happier on (or in) Hollyash Crack (VS4b)

Meanwhile, Adrian and I climbed Ringo (S 4a), which had one awkward section, but otherwise offered pleasant jamming; Ring Climb (also S 4a) which was of similar standard; and then I led Hollyash Crack (VS 4b). I found this quite scary, and thought I was coming off a few times : the gear (and limbs) have to be placed very deep in the awkward off-width crack.

Sean made an extremely bold lead of Knight's Move (HVS 5a), which the rest of us gratefully seconded. It's a superb gritstone sampler : jamming, laybacks, fingery moves, slabs and a rounded finish. All you could wish for.

Hairball and Laura arrived, so he set off up Knight's Move (not for the first time) while Adrian and I moved over to Still Orange (S 4a). This was an odd little route, with only the last couple of moves being of much interest.

Adrian looking happily run-out on Still Orange...

 

 

  ...and Hairball cruising Knight's Move...

...he just loves that Gritstone

I then led Black Slab (VS 4b), which I thought a most excellent climb, all friction and balance, and deserving a second star.

Unexpectedly good gear in the break at 3/4 height (there's nothing at all below it) makes the finish less exciting than it would otherwise be, though Adrian soloed it while I was setting up a belay. Don't you just hate it when that happens?

Black Slab (somewhat foreshortened)

To round off a perfect day, I fell off Mutiny Crack (HS 4b). Neither Adrian nor I could get going on this, another HS sandbag (which gets VS in "On Peak Rock"). Adrian had at least managed to stuff a Friend under the roof (pretty solidly, thank goodness) before he sensibly backed off it. I got through the roof, and made good contact with the block above, but on trying to move up my foot popped, and I lobbed off, from slightly too far above the gear. Ady manfully dropped to the ground to take in the rope, but I still landed badly, right onto my rack. I still bear interesting Stigmata where the cams of a large Friend on my rack punctured my *rse. Could have been a lot worse : I'll mend, but it put me off trying anything more that day.

Big thanks to Adrian for his excellent belaying, and to all for a great day out.


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