Steve Pardoe's Rock Climbing Ticklist Page
This edition 24. March 2003

Note that route 'ticks' are not repeated in the lists, unless there's a reason to (for example, leading a route previously seconded). You can see a tabular version of the ticklist here.
Go straight to most recent climb.


Wednesday 5/5/1999 Helsby Crag, Cheshire (sandstone)

(1) TR'd Grooved Slab, HS 4b (first roped rock climb)

(2) Seconded and then...
Led Little By Little, S 4a (first lead)

Also soloed this route, 20/6/2001

Sat 8/5/1999 Tryfan, North Wales
With Dave Raper and Richard Chambers
Trip report was published on the uk.rec.climbing newsgroup.

(3) First Pinnacle Rib, D/VD Central Buttress, East Face (first multi-pitch)
First Pinnacle Rib is a high mountain rock climb. Depending on which guide book you read, it's graded Diff or V Diff, and consists of some six main pitches, with a total length of 535 or 600+ feet. Its remarkably pure line starts at the Heather Terrace, and finishes right by the 917 metre high summit of Tryfan, near the famous monoliths of Adam and Eve. In the poor conditions we had, it probably rates about a grade higher.

Youarsey Mammothon Weekend at Stanage Edge, Derbyshire
(Grades, stars, etc are from BMC "Selected Climbs On Peak Rock" book).
Big gathering of Youarseys (members of the uk.rec.climbing Internet news/user group), loads of cake.
Trip report

Sat 15/5/1999 Popular End, Flying Buttress Area

(4) Seconded Lewis up Hollybush Crack, VD *** (1926) 14m
Nice intro to gritstone climbing, the exit didn't seem as awesome as the guidebook says.

(5) Seconded Lewis up Central Trinity, VS 4c ** (1929) 15m
Ideal intro to grit jamming! Now I know why they are called finger jams. They turn your fingers into jam.

(6) Led Flying Buttress, VD *** (1922) 20m
Nicely wandering line, and easy to protect (with a lot of advice from Lewis). Big jugs on exit crenellations, easy mantle if you are tall. Ant belayed me, and Lewis unselfishly soloed alongside me on this, my first gritstone lead, to show me how to protect it, and also helped set up the top-belay. Ant will have been equally grateful for that!

(7) Led Crack & Corner, HVD 4b *** (1923 - 1951) 15m
Beautiful route, really nice line, my first 'on-sight' lead without any coaching. The initial polished crux is easier if you are tall, I found the move onto the outside of an iffy-looking flake more unnerving.

(8) Led Black Hawk Hell Crack, S ** (c.1932) 14m
Nice, if gloomy, route, good thread near top. Took me a while to set up a decent top-belay though, very glad of Ant's help on that.

Sunday morning 16/5/1999 High Neb Area, Stanage Edge

Quite late arriving, after compulsory visit to Outside, and diversion to pick up Ant off the bus at Baslow (eventually got his message that the bus times had changed, and he was going to the Roaches).

(9) Seconded Lewis up Gunter Crack, VS 4c
We had thought this was Straight Crack, S 4a (not in OPR). Some quite exposed moves: Lewis had wisely decided to bail out of soloing it before we arrived.

(10) Seconded Lewis up Eckhard's Chimney, VD
Easy going, after a gloomy and rather strenuous start. Now I see why Lewis doesn't like chimneys.

(11) Led Inaccessible Crack, VS 4c * (1915) 18m (first VS lead)
There are various starts in the guidebook, but all lead to a thin crack to an obvious break, traversing to a corner, with a small roof to be negotiated. Initial crack is easy, but with a tricky exit. I had a slip/fall (well held by Lewis) when trying to gain the glossy ledge. After a delicate stand-up and traverse to a good stance, I got myself tired trying to get a wire in to protect the next big move. Layback above a small roof is airy, but has good holds, with an excellent exit into cave (should post to uk.rec.caving). I clipped rather unsportingly into Mark Tolver's previous top-belay setup to protect my exit, so with the half-fall it barely counts as a true lead.

Sunday 6/6/1999 Windgather Rocks, Cheshire (grit)
With Kate D & Judy

(12) South Crack, D
(13) The Broken Groove in the Arete, D
(14) Corner Crack, D
(15) First's Arete, D
We had only two harnesses and one belay device between three of us, so I just soloed the four routes, and Kate and Judy took turns at following up on the rope.

Sunday 13/6/1999 Eastby Crag, near Skipton, Yorks (grit)
With Dave Raper, Kate R & Judy (having bought the new Yorkshire Grit Guidebook in George Fisher's, Skipton). P grades are ease of protection (P1 means plenty, P3 means you only fall once). Trip report

(16) Led Scoop & Crack, S 4a (12m) [P1]
Steady, not very interesting apart from the finish (see [17] below)

(17) Seconded Index Variation, VS 5a (10m) [P2]
...finishing by laybacking the wide crack (as [16]) to the birch tree. Excellent "third" by Kate.

Friday 18/6/1999 The Roaches, Staffs (Nr Leek)
Youarsey Minithon, with John M, Nick S, Sean O, Steve C, Tony B
All four listed climbs were led by me or John Marsland & seconded by the other
Trip report

(18) Led Right Route, VD ** (24m)
Fine expedition, quite good protection.

(19) Seconded Roscoe's Wall, HVS 5b ** (11m)
Short and sweet. Starts with a tricky heel-hook near the ground (before you can protect it) and some powerful moves, to gain much easier going with very positive holds. I had a lot of help from the rope!

(20) Led Pedestal Route, HVD *** (27m)
Very varied, classic expedition, with all kinds of climbing. Did it in two pitches, bringing John up to a good stance on the shiny Pedestal, in an intimate position under the roof of The Sloth. Second pitch starts with a tricky move downwards onto a shiny break, really awkward mantelshelf and then delightful finish.

(21) Seconded Saul's Crack, HVS 5a *** (18m)
Varied jamming, direct line but with poor stances where you need to place (or remove!) the pro. Crux roof has a disappointingly sloping top. Final exit over rough convexities is also quite strenuous. Had a rest or two and a few good pullups on the rope, got tired removing (and failing to remove) gear.

Wednesday 30/6/1999 Pex Hill, near Widnes
Sandstone quarry, excavated into a shallow hilltop. Walls are almost vertical. Youarsey evening outing, with Tony B, Adrian J and a partner, John M, Ant W. All climbs were top-roped. Grades from John's Cheshire/Merseyside Sandstone guidebook.

(22) Twin Scoops, 4c
Some help from a tight rope midway on this green, slightly delicate route. Upper part is easier.

(23) The Abort, 5a
Delightful route, one of the nicest of the few I've done at the higher grades. Superb holds but very reachy, and little rest.

(24) The Web, 5b
Corner route, one blank section with pretty desperate haul on a finger pocket at the crux ("F*ck, f*ck, f*ck!"). Otherwise a bargain 5b, especially if you are tall.

(xx) Crack and Up, 5b
Couldn't get off the ground, which was disappointing as it looked feasible further up.

Wednesday 7/7/1999 Pex Hill, near Widnes
Youarsey evening outing, with Tony B, Adrian J and a partner, John M, Ant W, Steve C and Guy L.
All top-roped, except as indicated.

(25) Pisa Wall, 4a
Short, easy.

(26) Handshake, 5a
Short, not so easy: slightly technical moves, reach helps. The name refers to a pair of slots which you grasp like, er, a handshake.

(27) Straight Crack, 3c Soloed
Scared myself, as the crux is right near the top; big break to go for, but sandy, and you have to press on through to complete the route.

(28) Square Four, 4b *
Short, considerably harder than [24] with a balancy sideways lean. The name refers to a pattern of finger pockets.

(29) Memorial Wall, 4b
Excellent route, marred by long walk or short climb to set up top rope (stanchions).

(xx) The Rack:
(My) ropes jammed in exit crack, and Tony B had to be rescued after Prussik attempt failed.

Youarsey Weekend 17/18 July 1999
Trip reports
Saturday 17/71999 The Roaches
Trip report

(30) Seconded Black Velvet HVD 27m
Slight variation, at least Severe, leader Ian G was looking for Black & Tans & went straight up by mistake.

(31) Tried leading Right Hand Route S 4a 13m
Fell off the start twice, seconded it OK but I think it's a sandbag. Leader nearly lost his fingers jammed in the start crack.

(32) Seconded Tealeaf Crack S 12m
No worries

(33) Seconded Aqua VS 4b 12m
Choice of protect or use the hold at crux start

(34) Led Maud's Garden VD 21m
Scared stiff until I could eventually get some gear in, much easier higher up

(35) Soloed Prow Cracks D 10m
Dead easy

Sunday 18/7/1999 Crookrise (very slimy first thing, much better later)
Trip report

(36) Seconded Diagonal Cracks VD
Led by Ian G, everyone's first route at Crookrise, judging by the polish!

(37) Seconded Octopus S (variation?) Leader Ian G got a bit off route, my guidebook differs from his.

(38) Soloed "The Jolly Pleasant Scramble" M
...in order to set up a top rope to rescue gear from...

(39) Long Climb MVS
Seconded Ian G after first leader Tony B got stuck. The hidden hold is a beaut.

(xx) I could half-claim "Induction" D as used as the descent route

Wednesday 28/7/1999 Helsby Hill, all with John Marsland

(40) Seconded Flake Crack VS 5a
Strenuous classic corner crack.

(41) Top-roped Dinnerplate Crack S 4b
Roof start.

(42) Seconded Twin Caves Crack S 4b
Strenuous roof start, then jugfest.

Sunday 1/8/1999 Craig Yr Ysfa, Carneddau. Big family outing on Kate's 31st birthday.

(43) Amphitheatre Buttress VD (1905) 293m ***
Alternating leads with Steve "Blofeld" Currier (who led third, crux pitch) with Caroline Robinson mid-rope. Brilliant mountain multi-pitch route, in perfect weather; also with Dave Raper, Phil Robinson and Kate Robinson, on another rope.
Trip report

Saturday 23. October 1999 The Roaches, Staffs
Youarsey meeting Adrian Japp, Ant Roy, Charles Arthur, Mark Tolver, Stuart Burns, Tim
Trip report

(44) Led Beckermet Slab VD (1945) 15m *
Slimy start, bridging off Maud's Garden, then easy enough, nice holds just where you need them to finish, and more gear than expected from OPR. Ant Roy 2nd.

(45) Seconded Ant Roy up Fern Crack VD (1931) 18m *
Gorgeous undercut start, spoilt for choice of world-class jugs, thinner later to belay shelf; very slimy, I led through, slithering up top pitch.

Thursday (yes! a weekday) 24. February 2000, English Lake District with Dave Raper and Steve "Blofeld" Currier.

Castle Rock of Triermain, St John's in the Vale

(46) Seconded/led Direct Route MVS [VS?], 41m (3 pitches)
I led third (easy) pitch. Cold, rock sharp to start with, second pitch is glorious.
Trip report

Borrowdale

(47) Seconded Troutdale Pinnacle MS, 110m (7 pitches)
Polished crack start, then easier pitches to awkward traverse of 45 degree slab, very exposed, as is exit up tower to the Pinnacle. Spectacular belay; last pitch is a delight.
Trip report

Youarsey Weekend at Stanage Edge and Gardom's Edge, Derbyshire
(Grades, stars, etc are from BMC "Selected Climbs On Peak Rock" book).
Gathering of Youarseys (members of the uk.rec.climbing Internet news/user group)
Stanage trip report

Sat 8/4/2000 Stanage, Popular End, Flying Buttress Area

(--) Led Hollybush Crack, VD *** (1926) 14m
First lead of this classic (see (4)).

(--) Led Central Trinity, VS 4c ** (1929) 15m
First lead of this route (see [5]), sec by Stuart B. I was only having a look at it to retrieve his gear ... Took my first significant leader fall, trying to gain the second crack, but the gear held.

(48) Seconded Stuart B on Leaning Buttress Crack VD * (1920s) 15m
A few awkward moves, feels quite exposed for a V Diff.

Sun 9/4/2000 Gardom's Edge, Apple Buttress (after abandoning Stanage to the weather)
Gardom's trip report

(49) Led Apple Jack Crack VD 10m
Polished and damp (grass inside), sec Ian Stephenson.

(50) Seconded Ian S on Apple Crack D * (1930s) 18m
Nice line, runs up alongside the Arête.

(51) Led NMC Crack VD *** (1930) 10m
Green, some awkward arm jamming moves behind flake. Ian S led through to extraneous finish on Arête blocks, nice touch!

(52) Seconded Ant Roy on Apple Arête VS 4c ** (1952) 18m
Start as for Apple Crack, then move out onto face of buttress. Moves near top are quite exposed, but superb jugs await.

1/5/2000 Roaches, with Simon

(53) Led Prow Corner VD * 12m
Sec Simon Pardoe. Lovely route, deserves second star.

(54) Led "Prow Traverse" (VD?) 12m
Sec Simon P. Splendid, what's its name?

(55) Led Jeffcoats Chimney, VD, 24m **
Sec Simon P. Excellent, "traditional", two pitches.

10/05/2000 Windgather, Youarsey evening meeting
Trip report

(56) Led Centre Route VD 9m
Sec John Marsland. Well up to VDiff.

(57) Seconded Portfolio HVS 5b 9m *
Led by John Marsland. Superb, but fell off the exit, forgetting to remove a high side runner.

(58) Led Green Slab S 9m
Sec John Marsland. Soft touch, could almost have been soloed.
Repeated, solo, 29/06/2001

(59) Seconded ArÍte Direct VS 4c 9m
Led by John Marsland. Gymnastic start, then easy, superb friction.

11/06/2000 Roaches Youarsey meeting

(60) Seconded Damascus Crack HS 4a 12m *
Led by Marek Piekarski. Classic grit crack.

(61) Led Runner Route S 11m *
Sec Marek Piekarski. Clearly ironic, quite run-out.

(62) Led Black & Tans S 30m ***
Sec (both pitches) Marek Piekarski. Great to lead this classic (see [30]), but found the top mantels scary, a long way above gear.

(63) Seconded Technical Slab HS 4a 23m
Leader John Marsland. Quite run-out, but superb friction.

(64) Led Fledgling's Climb S 4a 13m *
Sec John Marsland. Better than it looks, some superb friction moves, others polished.

28/06/2000 Pex Hill Youarsey meeting

(65) Soloed B Route 3a
Barely worth ticking.

(66) Soloed A Route 3a
Also barely worth ticking.

(67) Top-roped The Rack 5a ***
Reachy, hence the name!

23/08/2000 Helsby with John Marsland (NWF)

(68) Top-roped Wood's Climb HVS 5a ***
Excellent semi-layback crux.

27/08/2000 Windgather with Judy Pardoe

(69) Led Mississippi VD 9m **
Second Judy Pardoe. Delightful route, J's first classic on grit.

(70) Soloed Chockstone Chimney D 9m
To set up T/R for [69] & retrieve gear.

03/09/2000 Idwal Slabs, Ogwen, Youarsey meeting
Trip report

(71) Seconded/Led Tennis Shoe S (Paul Williams, but given HS in CC guide) (to) 4a 141m ***
Alternated lead with Marek P. Brilliant classic (Noel Odell, 1919). Last pitch (4a, which I led) I found v.scary.

03/09/2000 Gribin Facet, Ogwen, Youarsey meeting

(72) Led Slab Direct Route VD 62m
Second Marek P. Thin for grade, but good gear.

09/09/2000 Roaches, Youarsey meeting

(73) Led The Black Pig VS 4c 8m *
Seconds Marek P, Ant Roy. Superb, shame it's short. My best on-sight lead to date.

16/01/2001 Bridestones, a cold day's bouldering with Dave Raper

(74) Soloed The Groove HS 4b
A soft touch for HS, but a scary enough on-sight solo.

Wednesday 11/4/2001 Pex Hill, near Widnes
Youarsey evening outing, with Adrian J, John M, Marek P.

(75) Top-roped Bon Ami, 5a
Some help from a tight rope, still quite skanky.

(76) Top-roped Short Crack, 4b
Ditto!

(Also repeated The Rack, 5a [67], and The Abort, 5a [23])

Tuesday 1/5/2001 Woodhouse Scar, Halifax
Evening bimble with Dave Raper at The Overhang Group & Gashed Buttress
Trip report

(77) Top-roped Bisto (HVS 5a)
My best effort at an HVS, even if it was on a (pretty tight) top-rope

(78) Top-roped The Lip (VS 4c)

(79) Top-roped The Layback (VD)

(80) Soloed Kriss (VD)
Rather a tasty finish for VDiff

(81) Soloed Kryton Crack (S)
Short, but offers some excellent jamming

Thursday 10/5/2001 Woodhouse Scar, Halifax
Evening bimble with Dave Raper at Spire Rock and Pyramid Buttress
Trip report

(82) Seconded Twin Cracks (VS 4b)
Hard for the grade, especially the thin start

(83) Top-roped Spigolo (HVS 5a)
Very hard for the grade, especially the bouldering start and a nasty move at two-thirds height. This would be a bold lead.

(84) Led Innominate Crack (S)
Feasible, well protected where you need it

Tuesday 22/5/2001 Tryfan Bach/Fach (Little Tryfan), Ogwen
Delightfully sunny outing with Judy Pardoe
Photo report on our secondary server here

(85) Led Crack 4 (D)
Easy, well protected, J's first multi-pitch route

(86) Led Little Tryfan Arête/Crack 1 (D)
Mixed the routes, after the Arête started to feel a bit exposed for J in crag approach shoes

Wednesday 23/5/2001 Frodsham, Cheshire
Evening bouldering with Arian Japp

(87) Soloed Wall and Traverse (D) (Neb Buttress)

(88) Soloed Right Hand Crack (VD) (Long Buttress)

(89) Soloed Flake Route (VD) (Long Buttress)

(90) Soloed Left Hand Crack (VD) (Long Buttress)

(91) Soloed Big Wall (4c) (St Stephen's Buttress)

Sunday 10/6/2001 Clogwyn Yr Oen, Moelwyns
Youarsey meeting with Marek P, [Tony B and Ant R]

(92) Seconded/led Kirkus's Climb Direct (S) ** (1928) 90m
Superb line, steep start. I led pitch 3 of 4

(93) Seconded/led Bent (VD) (variant?) 90m
Nice slabs, no problems

[..] Failed on Slack (S) ** (1960) 90m
Mini-epic, see article for uk.rec.climbing here

Wednesday 20/6/2001 Helsby
Youarsey evening with Marek P, Tony B, John M and Ant W

(94) Top-roped Oyster Slab Super Direct (HS 5a) *
High steps, quite strenuous

Wednesday 6/10/2001 Froggatt Edge
Mini-Youarsey meeting with John Marsland (leader) & Roger Dyke
Photo report on our secondary server here

(95) Seconded Heather Wall (HVD/S) *** (1945-1948) 17m
Excellent, with direct finish up CMC Wall at HVS

(96) Seconded Terrace Crack (MVS 4b) * 12m
Well up to the (BMC 1985) grade

(97) Top-roped Three Pebble Slab (E1 5a) *** (1948) 12m
Utterly classic grit slab, my first E1. One day, I might even...

Weekend 9 & 10/2/2002, Torridon
Scottish Winter Climbing with Robin Beadle (BMG), Neil S, Steve C
Photo report on our secondary server here

(98) Seconded (last man on rope of four) Far West Gully (SW I/II), Beinn Eighe 400m
Classic Scottish Winter route, with "bomber" pitch, but in poor condition

(99) Seconded (last man on rope of three) Twisting Gully (SW II), Liathach ** 180m
Another classic, sadly not in the best nick

30/3/2002, Burbage North (Eastern Edges)
Grades etc from new Rockfax "Peak Gritstone East"
Mini-u.r.c outing with Adrian J (my partner on all the routes except 106), John H, Sean, Duncan B, and L
Photo report on our secondary server here

(100) Led Ash Tree Crack (VD) * 12m
Seemed well up to the grade, perhaps just because it was my first lead for a while.

(101) Top-roped The Grazer (VS 4c) * 8m
Quite an awkward roof crack, desperate, even!

(102) Top-roped Lieback (VS 4c) * 8m
Seemed a lot easier than 101, flake exit is delightful

(103) Led Ringo (S 4a) * 8m
One awkward section, otherwise pleasant jamming

(104) Seconded Ring climb (S 4a) * 8m
Similar standard to 103

(105) Led Hollyash Crack (VS 4b) ** 14m
Scary, thought I was coming off a few times, gear (and limbs) have to be placed very deep in the awkward off-width crack

(106) Seconded Knight's Move (HVS 5a) *** 16m
Superb gritstone sampler : jamming, laybacks, fingery moves, slabs and a rounded finish. All you could wish for. Very bold lead by Sean.

(107) Seconded Still Orange (S 4a) * 12m
Strange route, only the last couple of moves are interesting

(108) Led Black Slab (VS 4b) * 8m
Excellent slab climbing, all friction and balance. Deserves a second star. Unexpectedly good gear in the break at 2/3 height makes the finish less exciting than it would otherwise be, though Adrian soloed it while I was setting up a belay

[-] Fell off Mutiny Crack HS 4b *** 10m
Neither Adrian nor I could get going on this, another HS sandbag. Gets VS in "OPR". My first hard ground fall, well caught by Adrian, but could have been nasty

13/4/2002, Stanage (Eastern Edges)
Grades etc from new Rockfax "Peak Gritstone East"
Mini-u.r.c outing with Marek P (my partner on all the routes), Adrian J, Tony B
Photo report on our secondary server here

(109) Led Balcony Buttress (S 4a) *** 20m
Delightful classic outing, in perfect conditions

(110) Seconded Heaven Crack (VD) *** 10m
Another delightful classic, but all too short!

(111) Soloed Mississippi Chimney (VD) *** 10m
Jugfest after a polished start, glad to have Marek spotting me

[-] Fell off Verandah Buttress S 5b * 14m
Couldn't boulder out the start of this infamous grading anomaly. Another hard ground fall (unroped), helmet saved a broken head

(112) Led Crack and Cave (VD) ** 18m
Is it me, or is this a sandbag? Seemed harder and more exposed than Balcony Buttress. Needs two ropes (and more skill)

25/5/2002, Birchen Edge (Eastern Edges)
Grades etc from new Rockfax "Peak Gritstone East" and are typical of the easier routes at this crag, with technical starts or cruxes on mild and well-protected climbs
Mini-u.r.c outing with Marek P (my partner on all the routes), Adrian J, Ant W, John H, Mr Pete and others

(113) Seconded Trafalgar Crack (VD 4a) ** 14m
Polished start, then straightforward

(114) Led Emma's Dilemma (S 4a) ** 14m
Another awkward start, then delightful, though the finish is tasty. Gets HS 4b in OPR

(115) Soloed Seasick Slab (VD 4b) 8m
Easier if you are tall enough to reach the ledge, but the mantel still requires care

(116) Soloed Matelot's Meander (S 4a) * 8m
Steep and green, but not as hard as it looked (nor as meandering as the name suggests)

(117) Led Stoker's Crack (S 4b) 8m
Strenuous start and awkward mantel into heather : finish is also quite delicate

1/9/2002, Tryfan (N. Wales), Milestone Buttress
Mini-u.r.c outing with Tony B and Marek P

(118) Seconded/Led Direct Route VD *** 75m
Totally classic (1910), polished to death, but a wonderful mountain outing. I led the excellent hand-traverse pitch below and round the bivalve.
Photos on Mareks' page here

14/9/2002, Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley, Peak District, with Tony B
Superb situation and friction, my first visit

(119) Seconded Wrinkled Buttress VD * 17m
Slab finish is bold for the grade.

(120) Led The Director's Route (Var) HVD * 17m
I chickened out of the traverse, which seemed unprotectable (at this grade, anyway) and finished directly.

(121) Seconded Wrinkled Wall (?) HVD 17m
Another dodgy finish, very bold indeed, and after a jugfest, too.

(122) Led Answer Crack HVD *** 13m
Superb laybacks, and good gear after an awkward start, but nearly came off at one point, so bashed on without stopping for further pro. Even with a sling at RHS of the ledge, I didn't fancy the direct finish on LHS, so stayed to right, easy and secure.

22/03/2003, Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, N. Wales, with Arnaud G and John M
Superbly atmospheric situation and steeped in history, my first visit, on a perfect Spring day

(123) Seconded Spiral Stairs VD ** 84m
Sensational, led by John. I was confused, since I'd heard the guidebook description of the second pitch being scary for a second, so after the exposure of what I thought was the first pitch, I was rather dreading the next. Turns out we'd simply scrambled up the first pitch, and the rest was a delight of steep pulls on excellent holds.

(124) Seconded Flying Buttress VD *** 92m
Another spectacular "out there" mountain route, led by Arnaud, with an airy pinnacle stance followed by a downclimb to the final wall. The highly polished entry to the chimney was tricky.

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