Welcome to Steve & Judy Pardoe's Allalinhorn Page

Major revision with new images and text, 13. June 1998

Allalinhorn 4,027m
(13,212 ft) June 1995

North face,
seen from the Metro Alpin

With only some 600 metres of ascent from the underground railway at Mittelallalin, this can be an easy 4,000 metre summit, but there is still objective danger from crevasses and the weather, and the temptation to bag it without proper preparation or acclimatization makes it particularly risky for inexperienced parties.

Route summary
We took the first Postbus from Saas Grund, where we were staying, to Saas Fee; and then the first cablecar and connecting underground train (Metro Alpin) to the station at Mittelallalin. The summit route heads across the ski area on a 'bashed' road, then curls to the left up the flank of the Allalinhorn towards the Feejoch.
Early part of the route
The summit is off to the left

We were lucky enough to be able to set a very fast time, out-climbing all the guided parties, in perfect conditions. Route-finding was easy, up the glacier and then southerly towards the Feejoch col.

With care and a simple ice-axe belay, the huge bergschrund was straightforward to cross (one person at a time!) via solid snow bridges, though these were softening by the afternoon. It was not necessary to climb all the way to the Feejoch, as there was an obvious line cutting the corner.
The bergschrund
One could have dropped a bus into this immense crevasse, and it would not have touched the sides
The summit ridge was narrow, and very exposed on the North side, so we visited the summit cross one at a time, with careful belays.

The views, ranging from the Monte Rosa Group to the South, the Liskamm and the Matterhorn to the West, and the Mischabel range to the North-West, were quite wonderful.

Judy back near the station
Weiβmies in the distance
Steve, just below the summit crest
The summit cross is visible behind

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Steve & Judy Pardoe
Cheshire,   England
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